LONG AND SLOW
Who doesn't like the idea of sinking a spoon into a concoction that's been cooking a long time to smooth, melting tenderness? It is the reason why, despite the fact that our lives are getting busier and busier, crockpots are still popular. Now that time is at a premium, our idea of luxury has changed: where once upon a time we would have found culinary luxury in a spoonful of caviar, we now find luxury in dishes that have been cooked slowly for a long time, eaten at peace and leisure.
Once the temperature of the oven drops below 150oC, a world of possibilities opens up to you. Because while the oven might stay at a high temperature for a relatively short time, it keeps these lower ones for the remainder of the day and overnight - and beyond. When the furious pizza heat has abated, and you have moved on from the more moderate bread and cake heat, you can begin to slip in rich casseroles of beans and lamb shanks, or trays of granola and biscotti. Cooked a long time - preferably overnight for the "soupies" - yields wonderful rewards that are, like Marcella Hazan once wrote, "the fire's parting gift".
Index
Real Baked Beans
Vegie Chili
Violeta's Sticky Lamb Shanks
Guvec
Merralyn's Sweet Curry
Frumenty
Rice and Oat Porridge
The House Muesli
Basic Fruit Compote
Vegie Chili
Violeta's Sticky Lamb Shanks
Guvec
Merralyn's Sweet Curry
Frumenty
Rice and Oat Porridge
The House Muesli
Basic Fruit Compote
ZWEIBACK, BISCUITS AND BISCOTTI
Zweiback (Rusk)
Simple Biscotti
Bay Biscuit
Fette Biscottate
Zweiback (Rusk)
Simple Biscotti
Bay Biscuit
Fette Biscottate
REAL BAKED BEANS
Ingredients:
1 tbsp. oil
2 onions, finely chopped
2 green peppers, finely diced
2 cups water or stock
3 tbsp. prepared mustard
1 1/2 tsp. salt or to taste
1 cup tomato passata
2 tbsp. tomato paste
1/4 cup sweet chili sauce
1/4 cup molasses or brown sugar
1 tbsp. worcestershire sauce
4 cups cooked beans - white, borlotti or kidney (tinned are ok, but rinse before using)
250g. bacon, in one piece OR 1 ham hock OR several bacon bones (opt.)
1 tbsp. oil
2 onions, finely chopped
2 green peppers, finely diced
2 cups water or stock
3 tbsp. prepared mustard
1 1/2 tsp. salt or to taste
1 cup tomato passata
2 tbsp. tomato paste
1/4 cup sweet chili sauce
1/4 cup molasses or brown sugar
1 tbsp. worcestershire sauce
4 cups cooked beans - white, borlotti or kidney (tinned are ok, but rinse before using)
250g. bacon, in one piece OR 1 ham hock OR several bacon bones (opt.)
Method:
1. Heat oil in a frying pan. Add onions and pepper, until cook for about 10 min., stirring occasionally, until onions are lightly browned. Combine together the water or stock, mustard, salt, tomato passata and paste, sweet chili sauce, molasses or brown sugar, worcestershire sauce, and onion mixture. Add beans, and stir to combine. Transfer mixture to a casserole with a tight-fitting lid, and bury the piece of bacon, ham hock or bacon bones in the mixture.
1. Heat oil in a frying pan. Add onions and pepper, until cook for about 10 min., stirring occasionally, until onions are lightly browned. Combine together the water or stock, mustard, salt, tomato passata and paste, sweet chili sauce, molasses or brown sugar, worcestershire sauce, and onion mixture. Add beans, and stir to combine. Transfer mixture to a casserole with a tight-fitting lid, and bury the piece of bacon, ham hock or bacon bones in the mixture.
2. Cover casserole, and place in low oven 8-12 hours, under tender, thick, and slightly sticky. You can remove bacon or ham hock and set aside for another use, or chop and add to beans.
VEGIE CHILI
Ingredients:
1 cup kidney beans
1 cup black beans
1/2 cup urad dhal
1/2 cup adzuki beans
1 bay leaf
1 diced onion
4 chopped cloves garlic
1 tbsp. Mexican-style chili powder (or to taste)
1 tsp. cumin
1 tbsp oregano
1 x 880g. tin of tomatoes.
1 cup kidney beans
1 cup black beans
1/2 cup urad dhal
1/2 cup adzuki beans
1 bay leaf
1 diced onion
4 chopped cloves garlic
1 tbsp. Mexican-style chili powder (or to taste)
1 tsp. cumin
1 tbsp oregano
1 x 880g. tin of tomatoes.
Method:
1. Don't soak the beans. Place all ingredients in a large lidded casserole. Add enough water to cover the beans by about 2.5cm.
1. Don't soak the beans. Place all ingredients in a large lidded casserole. Add enough water to cover the beans by about 2.5cm.
2. Place casserole in low oven, and leave 8-12 hours (I have left mine in up to 20 hours), until beans are tender and sauce is thick. Add salt to taste.
VIOLETA'S STICKY LAMB SHANKS
Well, actually, all lamb shanks are sticky given the benefit of the long and slow treatment. This is my favourite way with lamb shanks, and although leftovers are unusual, they are good in soups and stews.
Well, actually, all lamb shanks are sticky given the benefit of the long and slow treatment. This is my favourite way with lamb shanks, and although leftovers are unusual, they are good in soups and stews.
Ingredients:
4 lamb shanks
salt and pepper
oil
12 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole
1 tbsp. fresh rosemary
1/2 preserved lemon, chopped
dry sherry
4 lamb shanks
salt and pepper
oil
12 cloves garlic, peeled and left whole
1 tbsp. fresh rosemary
1/2 preserved lemon, chopped
dry sherry
Method:
1. Season shanks well with salt and pepper. Heat a little oil in a cast iron frying pan and brown them well on all sides over medium-high heat.
1. Season shanks well with salt and pepper. Heat a little oil in a cast iron frying pan and brown them well on all sides over medium-high heat.
2. Place shanks in a casserole along with garlic, rosemary, lemon, and enough dry sherry to cover the bottom of the pan by about 2.5cm. Cover. Place in 150oC oven, and leave until oven is cool. (Shanks should still be warm. They can be reheated further if desired.)
GUVEC
Pronounced goo-vetch, this is a most delicious lamb stew from Turkey. I haven't included quantities for the meat and vegetables because it's one of those things that can be made by feel, and as large or small as your casserole is. You will need three layers of each ingredient. I like to have the lamb and onions on top of the remaining vegies so that the meat's juices drip down and flavour them.
Pronounced goo-vetch, this is a most delicious lamb stew from Turkey. I haven't included quantities for the meat and vegetables because it's one of those things that can be made by feel, and as large or small as your casserole is. You will need three layers of each ingredient. I like to have the lamb and onions on top of the remaining vegies so that the meat's juices drip down and flavour them.
Ingredients:
Green beans, topped and tailed
Zucchini, sliced
Green peppers, sliced
Eggplant, diced
Potatoes, sliced
Carrots, sliced
Tomatoes, peeled and sliced
Diced lamb
Onions, sliced
5-10 cloves garlic, sliced
1/2 cup water
3 bay leaves
salt and pepper
1-3 tbsp. butter, depending on the state of your arteries
Green beans, topped and tailed
Zucchini, sliced
Green peppers, sliced
Eggplant, diced
Potatoes, sliced
Carrots, sliced
Tomatoes, peeled and sliced
Diced lamb
Onions, sliced
5-10 cloves garlic, sliced
1/2 cup water
3 bay leaves
salt and pepper
1-3 tbsp. butter, depending on the state of your arteries
Method:
1. In a large greased casserole, place a layer of beans, a layer of zucchini, a layer of peppers, a layer of eggplant, a layer of potatoes, a layer of carrots, a layer of tomatoes, and a layer of lamb. Season well with salt and freshly-ground pepper, and top with a layer of onions and some garlic slices. Repleat the layering process two more times.
1. In a large greased casserole, place a layer of beans, a layer of zucchini, a layer of peppers, a layer of eggplant, a layer of potatoes, a layer of carrots, a layer of tomatoes, and a layer of lamb. Season well with salt and freshly-ground pepper, and top with a layer of onions and some garlic slices. Repleat the layering process two more times.
2. Dot casserole with butter. Cover. Place in 150oC oven, and leave until oven is cool.
MERRALYN'S SWEET CURRY
This is not a curry for purists. It may have a Australian Suburbia circa 1976 air about it, but don't let that deter you because it really is delicious. Merralyn uses her trusty crockpot for it, but I have found my oven to be just the thing too.
This is not a curry for purists. It may have a Australian Suburbia circa 1976 air about it, but don't let that deter you because it really is delicious. Merralyn uses her trusty crockpot for it, but I have found my oven to be just the thing too.
Ingredients:
1 tbsp. curry paste
oil
500g. lean beef
2 onions, chopped
2 large tomatoes, peeled and chopped
2 bananas, peeled and sliced
1 apple, peeled and chopped
a handful of raisins
1 x 400g. tin coconut milk
lemon juice
salt to taste
1 tbsp. curry paste
oil
500g. lean beef
2 onions, chopped
2 large tomatoes, peeled and chopped
2 bananas, peeled and sliced
1 apple, peeled and chopped
a handful of raisins
1 x 400g. tin coconut milk
lemon juice
salt to taste
Method:
1. Fry off curry paste in a little oil until fragrant. In a lidded casserole, combine beef, onions, tomatoes, bananas, apple, raisins, coconut, and curry.
1. Fry off curry paste in a little oil until fragrant. In a lidded casserole, combine beef, onions, tomatoes, bananas, apple, raisins, coconut, and curry.
2. Cover, and place in the 150oC oven. Allow to cook until oven is cool (curry will still be hot). Add lemon juice and salt to taste.
FRUMENTY
Frumenty is an old Anglo Saxon dish that without the traditional additions of egg yolks, cream, and brandy, makes a fine breakfast.
Frumenty is an old Anglo Saxon dish that without the traditional additions of egg yolks, cream, and brandy, makes a fine breakfast.
Ingredients:
1 cup whole wheat berries
1/2 cup raisins or sultanas
1 tsp. mixed spice
3 1/2 cups water
honey and milk (or your favourite porridge toppings), to serve
1 cup whole wheat berries
1/2 cup raisins or sultanas
1 tsp. mixed spice
3 1/2 cups water
honey and milk (or your favourite porridge toppings), to serve
Method:
1. Combine whole wheat, raisins or sultanas, spice, and water in a liddle casserole. Cover, and bake in low oven for 8 hours, until grains are tender and bursting.
1. Combine whole wheat, raisins or sultanas, spice, and water in a liddle casserole. Cover, and bake in low oven for 8 hours, until grains are tender and bursting.
2. Serve with honey and milk, or your favourite hot cereal toppings.
RICE AND OAT PORRIDGE
Second only to bagels with cream cheese and smoked salmon, this gets my vote for my favourite brekkie. Its one advantage over bagel deal, however, is that it once inside your body it works on clearing your arteries rather than clogging them up. The combination of peaches, oats and brown sugar seems made in heaven, and is handy to remember next time you make a fruit crumble or cake. This recipe is adapted from one found on my Internet crawls, and was originally called "Lu's Breakfast". Thanks, Lu!
Second only to bagels with cream cheese and smoked salmon, this gets my vote for my favourite brekkie. Its one advantage over bagel deal, however, is that it once inside your body it works on clearing your arteries rather than clogging them up. The combination of peaches, oats and brown sugar seems made in heaven, and is handy to remember next time you make a fruit crumble or cake. This recipe is adapted from one found on my Internet crawls, and was originally called "Lu's Breakfast". Thanks, Lu!
Ingredients:
3 cups rolled oats
1 cup brown rice
3/4 cup dried currants
pinch of salt
8 cups water
1 peach per person, peeled and cut into wedges
flaked almonds to taste
brown sugar to taste
vanilla yoghurt to taste
3 cups rolled oats
1 cup brown rice
3/4 cup dried currants
pinch of salt
8 cups water
1 peach per person, peeled and cut into wedges
flaked almonds to taste
brown sugar to taste
vanilla yoghurt to taste
Method:
1. Combine rolled oats, rice, currants, salt, and water. Cover, and cook in low oven overnight.
1. Combine rolled oats, rice, currants, salt, and water. Cover, and cook in low oven overnight.
2. Stir in peaches, and turn into hot bowls. Top each serving with almonds, brown sugar, and vanilla yoghurt to taste.
THE HOUSE MUESLI
Experiment with your own fruit/nut/sweetening to make it the muesli of your own house. The muesli will keep, in a cool dark place, for up to six months.
Experiment with your own fruit/nut/sweetening to make it the muesli of your own house. The muesli will keep, in a cool dark place, for up to six months.
Ingredients:
10 cups rolled oats
1 cup wheat germ or bran
250g. flaked coconut
5 cups nuts and/or seeds (choose from sunflower seeds, sesame seeds, pepitas, almonds, pecans, walnuts, hazels, brazil nuts, macadamias, etc.)
1 1/2 cups brown sugar, firmly packed
1 1/2 cups water, apple juice or cider, orange juice, or apricot nectar
1 1/2 cups vegetable oil
1 cup honey, or equal quantities honey and molasses
1 1/2 tsp. salt
2 tsp. cinnamon or mixed spice
3 tsp. vanilla
4 cups dried fruit (choose from sultanas, raisins, currants, apricots, peach, mango, paw paw, apple, pear, prunes, pineapple, yoghurt-coated fruit, etc.)
10 cups rolled oats
1 cup wheat germ or bran
250g. flaked coconut
5 cups nuts and/or seeds (choose from sunflower seeds, sesame seeds, pepitas, almonds, pecans, walnuts, hazels, brazil nuts, macadamias, etc.)
1 1/2 cups brown sugar, firmly packed
1 1/2 cups water, apple juice or cider, orange juice, or apricot nectar
1 1/2 cups vegetable oil
1 cup honey, or equal quantities honey and molasses
1 1/2 tsp. salt
2 tsp. cinnamon or mixed spice
3 tsp. vanilla
4 cups dried fruit (choose from sultanas, raisins, currants, apricots, peach, mango, paw paw, apple, pear, prunes, pineapple, yoghurt-coated fruit, etc.)
Method:
1. In a humungous bowl combine oats, wheat germ or bran, coconut, and seeds/nuts. Mix well (your hands are best with such large amounts).
1. In a humungous bowl combine oats, wheat germ or bran, coconut, and seeds/nuts. Mix well (your hands are best with such large amounts).
2. In a large saucepan, combine brown sugar, water (or other liquid), oil, honey, salt, cinnamon and vanilla. Heat until sugar is dissolved, do not allow to boil. Pour over oat mixture and stir until well coated.
3. Distribute mixture among five lamington pans. Place in low oven and bake several hours, stirring occasionally. Cooking times depend on how much crunch you want in your muesli - just take into account that it will get crispier as it cools. When completely cold, mix in dried fruit. Transfer to airtight containers.
BASIC FRUIT COMPOTE
A recipe for compote isn't really necessary: you can ring the changes with the fruit as well as the liquid you use and no matter what it will still taste great. Compote can be served hot or cold, plain or with thick Greek or vanilla yoghurt, Fruche, sour or clotted cream. It is also good spooned over cereal and porridge.
A recipe for compote isn't really necessary: you can ring the changes with the fruit as well as the liquid you use and no matter what it will still taste great. Compote can be served hot or cold, plain or with thick Greek or vanilla yoghurt, Fruche, sour or clotted cream. It is also good spooned over cereal and porridge.
Ingredients:
3 cups dried fruit (choose from prunes, pears, apples, figs, peaches, pineapple, apricots, etc.)
2 cups boiling water
1/2 cup orange or apple juice or cider
1 cinnamon stick, or vanilla bean, or 1/3 cup ginger in syrup
1 strip lemon or orange peel
2 tbsp. sugar
1/4 cup honey
3 cups dried fruit (choose from prunes, pears, apples, figs, peaches, pineapple, apricots, etc.)
2 cups boiling water
1/2 cup orange or apple juice or cider
1 cinnamon stick, or vanilla bean, or 1/3 cup ginger in syrup
1 strip lemon or orange peel
2 tbsp. sugar
1/4 cup honey
Method:
1. Place fruit, water, fruit juice, cinnamon stick or vanilla, and citrus peel in a casserole. Cover, and cook in a low oven overnight.
1. Place fruit, water, fruit juice, cinnamon stick or vanilla, and citrus peel in a casserole. Cover, and cook in a low oven overnight.
2. Add sugar and honey and stir until dissolved.
ZWEIBACK, BISCUITS AND BISCOTTI
With baked goods cooking twice makes for crispness, and it seems without a doubt that the original cookie-type biscuits and biscotti were twice-baked. First, in a loaf, then sliced and dried out in the oven. The lower the oven temperature and the longer you leave in the following four recipes to dry, the harder and crunchier they will be. Originally, zweiback rusks were made hard enough to withstand long sea journeys and discourage weevils; biscotti were made dry enough to soak up a goodly amount of the Vin Santo or coffee they were dunked into. Harder, long-dried zweiback, biscotti, and biscuits keep longer; softer short-dried ones will not put your bridgework at risk. So it's up to you. In the strict sense of the word, drying takes place at temperatures below 110oC; temperatures above that are baking out surface moisture, but not internal.
These twice-baked goodies makes efficient use of your bakeoven: you can bake the bread and loaves at the higher temperatures, and dry them out as the temperature falls.
ZWEIBACK (RUSK)
Zweiback, or rusk, puts an end to the guilt-ridden throwing away of bread, and provides you with a fine product that you can give to a teething child, use as a croute in a hearty bowl of soup or stew, grate or process into breadcrumbs, reconstitute and add to meatloaves, burgers and patties, use as the base for Capponata, eat instead of cardboardy crispbread (it is, after all, the original crispbread), rub with garlic and put in the bottom of the salad bowl, break up and add to Caesar Salad, or whatever your nimble mind can come up with. It is so easy to make no recipe is needed. Simply:
Zweiback, or rusk, puts an end to the guilt-ridden throwing away of bread, and provides you with a fine product that you can give to a teething child, use as a croute in a hearty bowl of soup or stew, grate or process into breadcrumbs, reconstitute and add to meatloaves, burgers and patties, use as the base for Capponata, eat instead of cardboardy crispbread (it is, after all, the original crispbread), rub with garlic and put in the bottom of the salad bowl, break up and add to Caesar Salad, or whatever your nimble mind can come up with. It is so easy to make no recipe is needed. Simply:
Slice bread to desired thickness, and place on ungreased baking pans, without overlapping. Bake for about 20 min in a moderately low oven, or as long as you like in a low oven, until crisp and hard.
SIMPLE BISCOTTI
This is a basic recipe. It can be endlessly varied by omitting or changing the nuts, and adding cocoa or chocolate bits, citrus rind, different essences, etc.
This is a basic recipe. It can be endlessly varied by omitting or changing the nuts, and adding cocoa or chocolate bits, citrus rind, different essences, etc.
Ingredients:
1/4 cup butter
1/2 cup sugar
grated zest of 1 lemon
1 egg
1 tbsp. grappa or other spirit
2 cups flour
2 tbsp. baking powder
1 cup roasted hazelnuts, skin rubbed off
1/4 cup butter
1/2 cup sugar
grated zest of 1 lemon
1 egg
1 tbsp. grappa or other spirit
2 cups flour
2 tbsp. baking powder
1 cup roasted hazelnuts, skin rubbed off
Method:
1. Cream butter and sugar until smooth. Add lemon zest, egg, and grappa, and mix until combined. Sift over the flour and baking powder, and stir to make a dough. Stir in nuts.
1. Cream butter and sugar until smooth. Add lemon zest, egg, and grappa, and mix until combined. Sift over the flour and baking powder, and stir to make a dough. Stir in nuts.
2. Divide dough in half and form each into "sausages" about 6 cm thick. Transfer to a greased baking sheet, and bake in a moderate oven for about 25 min., until risen and just firm.
3. Allow to cool completely. With a serrated knife, cut each loaf on the diagonal into 12 slices. Arrange slices on a baking sheet without overlapping. Bake for about 20 min in a moderately low oven, or as long as you like in a low oven, until crisp.
BAY BISCUIT
This recipe is an after school standard with a glass of milk for children in Argentina, where it is pronounced "bye biskweet".
This recipe is an after school standard with a glass of milk for children in Argentina, where it is pronounced "bye biskweet".
Ingredients:
5 eggs
200g. sugar
1 coffee cup oil
2 tsp. vanilla essence
300g. self-raising flour
5 eggs
200g. sugar
1 coffee cup oil
2 tsp. vanilla essence
300g. self-raising flour
Method:
1. Grease and flour a baking (lamington) pan. Beat eggs and sugar until doubled in volume. Add oil and vanilla, and beat to combine. Sift over the flour, and fold in with a spatula.
1. Grease and flour a baking (lamington) pan. Beat eggs and sugar until doubled in volume. Add oil and vanilla, and beat to combine. Sift over the flour, and fold in with a spatula.
2. Pour mixture into prepared pan to a 2cm thickness. Bake in a moderate oven until a toothpick inserted in the centre comes out clean.
3. Unmould cake and cool completely. With a serrated knife, cut into 30 bars. Arrange bars on baking sheets, without overlapping. Bake for about 20 min in a moderately low oven, or as long as you like in a low oven, until crisp.
FETTE BISCOTTATE
These are the golden, fragile "twice-cooked slices", usually imported from Italy and Holland in paper packets. Only slightly sweet, they are just the thing for afternoon tea.
These are the golden, fragile "twice-cooked slices", usually imported from Italy and Holland in paper packets. Only slightly sweet, they are just the thing for afternoon tea.
Ingredients:
1 tbsp. active dry yeast
2 cups milk, warm
1/4 cup sugar
3 cups unbleached bread flour
3 cups cake flour
1/4 cup butter, softened
1 tsp. malt extract
2 tsp. salt
1 tbsp. active dry yeast
2 cups milk, warm
1/4 cup sugar
3 cups unbleached bread flour
3 cups cake flour
1/4 cup butter, softened
1 tsp. malt extract
2 tsp. salt
Method:
1. Combine the yeast in a bowl with 5 tbsp. of the milk and 2 tsp. of the sugar. Allow to stand until frothy.
1. Combine the yeast in a bowl with 5 tbsp. of the milk and 2 tsp. of the sugar. Allow to stand until frothy.
2. In a large bowl combine the flours, the butter, the malt extract, the salt, and the remaining sugar. Make a well in the centre and add the yeast mixture and the remaining milk. Mix to form a dough, then knead 8 min. by hand or 5 min. by machine until dough is smooth.
3. Allow dough to rise until doubled. Knock dough down, and divide in two. Allow to rest 10 minutes. Form each piece into fat sausages and place in oiled nut loaf (ie. cylindrical) tins or juice cans, or failing that, loaf pans. Allow to proof until almost doubled.
4. Bake in a moderately hot oven for about 20-25 min. Unmould, and allow to cool 12 hours. Slice loaves and place on baking sheets without overlapping. Bake for about 20 min in a moderately low oven, or as long as you like in a low oven, until crisp.
NOTE: To get fette biscottate more like the commercial product, toast slices under the griller until golden on both sides, and then place on baking sheets and dry in a low oven.
