Recipes - specialty breads




"I cut my teeth on this [three-cup] loaf, so to speak, and considering its density, it's a wonder I didn't knock them out."


(from "Home Cooking", Laurie Colwin)


I am forever amazed by the endless variations on the bread theme. The subject has filled books - and the internet! Because of this, I am including only my very favourites.


Index

Moron Scones
Aussie Damper
Irish Soda Oat Bread
Pita
Pide
Elizabeth David's Rice Bread
Ciabatta
Pane di Pasta Dura
Focaccia
Ali's Birthday Olive Braid
Greek-style Sundried Tomato Bread
Panettone
La Gubana
Wiltshire Lardy Cake




MORON SCONES 
No offense: the moron is supposed to be me. After several hockey-puck failures, I shunned scones for most of my adult life, until an acquaintance came to the rescue with this recipe which I can now make in my sleep. Self-raising flour is standard in Australia, but you can make your own by sifting one cup of plain flour three times with two teaspoons of baking powder.

Ingredients: 
2 cups self-raising flour
300ml cream
pinch of salt
milk

Method: 
1. Combine flour, cream and salt to make a dough. Pat out to 2.5-3cm thickness, and cut into 12 rounds with a scone cutter; or pat dough out into two rounds, and cut each one into 6 wedges.
2. Place scones close together on a flat baking tray. Brush with milk. Bake abour 5 min if the tray has no sides, or 7 min if the tray has sides.


AUSSIE DAMPER
Damper is bush food, leavened maybe with a can of Foster's or copious amounts of bicarb. It really is an oversized scone, and like scones it should be eaten just out of the oven, or at the most the same day it is made.

Ingredients: 
3 cups self-rainsing flour
1 1/2 tsp. salt
90g. butter
1 cup milk and water, half and half
milk, extra
flour, extra

Method:
1. Combine flour and salt. Rub in butter until mixture resembles the usual breadcrumbs.
2. Add liquid all at once, and mix lightly with a knife in a cutting motion. Turn out onto a lightly floured surface, and knead lightly fifteen times.
3. Place damper on floured peel, and slash a cross on top. Brush with milk and sprinkle over some flour. Slide damper into hot oven, and bake about 10-15 min.


IRISH SODA OAT BREAD 
Irish soda bread is brilliant when you want bread in a hurry. Its texture is close and it has a delicate nutty flavour which can be dressed down with butter, or up with cream cheese and smoked salmon. It should be eaten the day it's made, but leftovers make great toast.

Ingredients: 
600g. wholemeal flour
150g. quick oats
1 1/2 tsp. bicarb. soda
1 1/2 heaped tsp. salt
600ml buttermilk (see below), or yoghurt thinned with milk

Method: 
1. Preheat oven to 240oC and grease a flat cookie sheet. Combine dry ingredients, and add buttermilk, stirring with a wooden spoon. Turn dough out onto a heavily floured surface and knead until smooth (though it should still be a little sticky).
2. Shape dough into a round about 8cm high and place on cookie sheet. Cut a deep cross on the top. Cook for about 40 min., or until bread sounds hollow when tapped.
BUTTERMILK: You can make your own buttermilk easily by adding about 1 tbsp. lemon juice or vinegar to each 2 cups milk. Microwaving this for 1 minute will also thicken the buttermilk for you.


PITA 
Pita can be made from any standard bread dough, but I always like to include at least some wholemeal flour. The nutty whole wheat flavour of pita straight out of the adobe oven "no tiene nombre".

Ingredients: 
2 1/4 cups warm water
2 tsp. salt
2 tbsp. oil
2 tsp. sugar
1 tbsp. dry yeast
2 cups wholemeal flour
4 cups unbleached flour

Method: 
1. Place water, salt, oil, sugar, and yeast in a large bowl, and whisk together. Add flour, 1 cup at a time (add wholemeal flour first). When you have a dough, knead for about 8 min until smooth and elastic. (If you have a mixer with a dough hook, simply place all ingredients in bowl and knead 5 min.)
2. Divide dough into 24 pieces. Roll each into a smooth ball. With a floured rolling pin, roll balls into a 20cm circle.
3. Clean oven hearth as usual. Toss dough circles, a few at a time, directly onto hearth. In one or two minutes they will puff up. Remove them with tongs as they puff, before they have a chance to brown or crisp.


PIDE 
In Australia, Turkish pide is served with dips as an antipasto. It is so delicious that my family and I usually spoil our appetites with all that flavourful dunking and chewing. I hunted the internet high and low for a recipe before finding this one. Unfortunately, I cannot now recall where I found it. Whoever you are, I thank you from the bottom of my heart - and if you recognize the recipe, let me know so I can give you full credit.

Ingredients: 
For the sponge -
4 teaspoons active dry yeast
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/2 cup warm water
1/2 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
To finish -
3 1/2 cups bread flour
1 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup plus 1 tablespoon lukewarm water
2 eggs, lightly beaten
Black cumin seeds (also known as nigella, kalonji, or onion seeds)

Method: 
1. First, make the sponge. Dissolve the yeast and sugar in warm water and let stand in a warm place for 10 minutes, until frothy. Stir in the flour, cover with plastic wrap, and let rise 30 minutes.
2. Put remaining flour in a large bowl, made a well in the center. Put in the sponge, salt, olive oil, and lukewarm water. Gradually work in the flour to make a soft and sticky dough.
3. Knead the dough on a floured surface for 15 minutes. The dough will be very sticky at first, but as you knead, it will gradually cease to stick to your hands. You should have a damp and very springy dough that will offer no resistance to kneading.
4. Put the dough in a buttered bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and let
rise 1 hour, until well swollen. You can refrigerate the dough at this point until you are ready to use it.
5. Divide the dough into 2 pieces and shape each into a ball. Cover with a towel and let rest 30 minutes. Flatten one piece of dough slightly. Wet your hands, press and enlarge the dough outward into a circle. Stretch out the circle, pressing hard, particularly with the sides of your hands.
6. When the dough is stretched to a 10-inch circle, paint it generously with egg. Using the sides of your hands, mark a border 2 inch wide all around the edge. Dip your fingertip in egg; holding your hands above the circle, 4 fingertips pointing down, mark 4 horizontal rows of indentations parallel to each other with your fingertips, staying within the border. Rotate the circle halfway (180 degrees) and mark 4 rows of indentations parallel to each other and perpendicular to the previous rows. Let your fingertips go down deep, stopping short of piercing the dough.
7. Sprinkle the peel with semolina or flour. Lift the pide, holding it at both ends, and stretch it into an oval shape while placing it over the peel. How it should measure approximately 9 by 15 inches. Make sure it is well brushed with egg and sprinkle it with some nigella seeds or sesame seeds. Slide it gently onto the oven hearth and bake 5-6 min. As it comes out of the oven, keep it in the folds of a towel. Repeat with the remaining dough. Pide will be at its best fresh from the oven, but can be reheated in foil if necessary.


ELIZABETH DAVID'S RICE BREAD 
This is a bread of extraordinary moistness and lightness, with a crackling golden crust. According to Elizabeth David, rice was added in a time when it was cheap, to pad out the more expensive flour. It was discovered to be so good, that rice was then added to the dough as a matter of course. Once you try it for yourself, you might find yourself doing the same thing with every bread you bake. The rice adds moistness, and makes for an excellent-keeping loaf; although David doesn't say so, I'm wondering if the rice starches aid fermentation, because this bread rises quite spectacularly and the light texture is beautifully honeycombed. The dough is soft and sticky: I am ever grateful I have my Pa's Kenwood on long-long-long term loan, but you can make it by hand - just remember kneading won't be easy. You can add extra fibre to this bread by using brown rice (remembering to cook it longer, naturally). I also like to add a mixture of roasted sesame seeds, chopped walnuts and sunflower seeds.

Ingredients: 
1 cup rice
water
6 1/2 cups unbleached bread flour
2 1/4 cups cold water
3-4 tsp. salt
1 tbsp. dry yeast

Method: 
1. First, cook the rice. If using the stove, combine rice with 2 cups water and bring to the boil. Cover, reduce heat to very low, and cook for 20 min., until water is absorbed. If using microwave, combine rice and 1 1/2 cups water in a microwave casserole or rice cooker. Cover, and cook for 12 min., stirring halfway through cooking; allow to stand 5 min. While rice cooks, measure out flour and place it in the mixing bowl, and dissolve the yeast and salt in the water.
2. Add hot rice to flour in mixing bowl. With K beater, combine thoroughly. Add water yeast mixture and mix until just combined and still lumpy. Replace K beater with dough hook, and knead for 5 min.
3. Place dough in a greased bowl, and let rise in a warm place until more than doubled in volume - about 1 1/2 hours. Knock dough down, and divide in two. Place into greased loaf tins, and allow to prove until risen above the top of the tins.
4. Bake in a moderately hot oven for about 30 min. Remove from tins, and allow to bake on floor of oven for another 10-15 min., until cooked.


CIABATTA
Ciabatta means "slipper". An old, worn slipper at that, for the difficult-to-handle dough does not make a pretty sculpted bread. The dough is very wet and sticky, but do not add more flour.

Ingredients: 
For the biga -
1/4 tsp. active dry yeast
150ml warm water
2 cups bread flour
For the dough -
1 tsp. active dry yeast
1/4 cups warm milk
350ml water at room temperature
2 tbsp. olive oil
4 cups unbleached bread flour
3 tsp. salt

Method: 
1. First, make the biga: In a small bowl stir together all biga ingredients for 5 min. Cover with with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature for at least 12 hours and no more than 24 hours.
2. To Make dough: Dissolve yeast in milk and allow to sit for a few minutes until yeast is bubbly. In bowl of electric mixer fitted with dough hook mix yeast mixture, biga, water oil, and flour at low speed until combined. Increase speed to medium and knead 3 min., then add salt and knead 4 more minutes. Scrape dough into an oiled bowl and cover with plastic wrap.
3. Let dough rise at room temperature until doubled in bulk, about 1 1/2 hours. Turn dough out onto a well-floured work surface and cut in half. Transfer each half to a well-floured sheet of parchment or Gladbake, and pat out to a rough rectangle about 20cm long. Lift one side of the parchment so that the dough folds almost in three. Dimple loaves with floured fingers and dust tops with flour. Cover loaves with a damp kitchen towel, and allow to rise at room temperature until almost doubled in bulk, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
4. With the peel, transfer the loaves on their parchment, and slide into hot adobe oven. Bake loaves 15-20 min, or until pale golden.


PANE DI PASTA DURA 
This is Marcella Hazan's recipe. She says it is better eaten the day after it is made, and that it can be made in the food processor.

Ingredients: 
2 tsp. dry yeast
2 cups warm water
1/4 tsp. sugar
600g. durum flour (semolina flour or continental flour)
2 tso. salt
1 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
polenta or semolina

Method: 
1. Dissolve yeast and sugar in a bowl with 1/4 cup of the water. Stand until frothy.
2. Add 225g. of the flour and 3/4 cup of the water, and beat with a wooden spoon. Place dough on floured surface and knead about 10 min., adding extra flour if necessary, until smooth and elastic and no longer sticky. Shape into a ball.
3. Place dough into a floured bowl and cover with a damp towel. Allow to rise in a warm place until doubled.
4. Put remaining flour on bench, and place the dough on top, flattening it down. Pour remaining cup of water over it, along with the salt and olive oil. Combine everything together, and knead 10 min. Return dough to floured bowl, cover with damp towel, and allow to rise until doubled. Knock down and knead once more, stretching the dough quite hard as you do.
5. Divide dough in half and shape into "torpedoes". Place on sheets of cardboard which have been dusted with polenta or semolina. Cover with a damp towel and allow to rest 30-40 min.
6. Slash loaves and squirt with water. Slide onto peel, and then place in oven. Bake about 30 min. in a hot oven, or 1 hour in a moderate oven. Cool (preferably overnight) before cutting.


FOCACCIA
Focaccia is an olive oil-enriched and salted dough, which can be quite plain or varied endlessly with different toppings of herbs, bacon, olives, etc. What we now now as focaccia in Australia is known by many different names in Italy: In Genova it is known as pizza genovese, in Bologna crescentina, in central Italy schiacciata. And if you ask for a focaccia in Bologna or Venice, you will be handed a a very sweet, panettone-like cake!

Ingredients: 
1 1/2 tbsp. dry yeast
1 cup warm water
pinch sugar
1 tsp. salt
5 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
350-400g. unbleached flour
coarse sea salt

Method: 
1. Mix together yeast, water and sugar. Allow to stand until frothy.
2. Mix in salt, 2 tbsp. of the oil and about 1/3 of the flour, and beat with a wooden spoon. Sprinkle a surface with some of the flour, and begin kneading, incorporating more flour as you go. Knead for 8-10 min., until dough is elastic and smooth.
3. Form dough into a ball, and place in an oiled bowl. Cover with a damp teatowel and allow to rise in a warm place until doubled. Knock down dough.
4. Brush a lamington pan with 1 tbsp of the remaining oil. Put in dough, and with your fingers stretch and push it into the pan (it should be about 2 cm thick). Cover with a cloth and arrow to rise 30 min.
5. Make indentations in the dough with your fingers, and brush or drizzle with remaining oil.
6. Sprinkle with salt, and bake in a hot for about 15 min., until golden.

VARIATIONS:
FOCACCIA WITH ONIONS
- Saute 3 thinly sliced onions in 2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil until wilted. Spread over focaccia before Step 6.
FOCACCIA WITH OLIVES - Before Step 6, press pitted green or black olives into focaccia.
FOCACCIA WITH ROSEMARY - Sprinkle over the needles from 2 sprigs fresh rosemary before Step 6.
FOCACCIA WITH SAGE - Work 20 fresh chopped sage leaves into the dough at Step 2.
FOCACCIA WITH BACON - Work 100g. chopped bacon or smoked pancetta or kaiserfleish into dough at Step 2.


ALI'S BIRTHDAY OLIVE BRAID 
I invented this recipe for my sister's birthday, and I could almost make a meal of it with a bowlful of salad. The loaf is huge, and you'll most likely need someone's help to get it out of the oven and onto the cooling rack without breaking it.

Ingredients: 
For the dough -
6 cups strong unbleached flour
2 tsp. salt
1 ½ tsp. Fermipan yeast
2 tsp. rosemary (preferably fresh)
2 cups warm water
2 tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
For the filling -
1 cup pitted Kalamata olives
1/3 cup roasted red and yellow peppers
1/3 cup stuffed olives
¼ cup capers
2 tbsp. semi-dried tomatoes
4 anchovies (opt.)
2 cloves garlic, minced
1 tsp. oregano
For finishing -
Eggwash
Sesame seeds

Method: 
1. Put flour, salt, yeast and rosemary in mixer bowl and give it a quick whirl. Pour in combined water and oil, and whirl only until moistened. Change to dough hook and knead for 5 min. (You can, of course, mix and knead by hand. When kneading by hand, however, give it 8-10 min.) Place dough in an oiled bowl, cover, and set in a warm place to rise until doubled.
2. In the meantime, make the filling. Place all ingredients in food processor and whizz to obtain a coarse purée. Take care not to process the texture out of it.
3. Knock down dough, and divide into three equal parts. Roll each piece into a strip 70cm long x 15cm wide. (For those of you who don’t understand metric - umm… it’s time to catch up and learn!). Trim dough with a knife so the strips are perfectly rectangular (I had enough scraps to make my son three bread rolls). Spoon filling onto dough, shaping it into a long thin “sausage” down the centre of each strip of dough. Bring up edges of dough, and seal all down the length, pinching very well with your fingers. You will have three dough sausages.
4. You will need to assemble the braid on directly on the peel. If your peel is small, use a large piece of stiff cardboard (such as from a cardboard box). Dust with semolina, polenta, or cover with baking parchment. Place two of the dough sausages, seam-side down, on the tray in an “x” shape. Place the remaining dough sausage, seam-side down, vertically across the “x”. Braid the dough, from the middle to the right, and then from the middle to the left. Seal the ends well. Cover and leave to prove until almost doubled.
5. Generously brush braid with eggwash and sprinkle with sesame seeds. Bake in a moderate oven for about 40 min., until golden and cooked through. Carefully lift out with peel, and with two spatulas (and probably someone else’s hands), carefully lift braid onto a large cooling rack.


GREEK-STYLE SUNDRIED TOMATO BREAD
Ah, there's nothing traditionally Greek about this recipe and I know it! But I did use a traditional recipe for Greek olive bread, Eliopitta, as the basis for it.

Ingredients: 
1 lukewarm water
2 tsp. instant dried yeast (I use Fermipan)
2 tsp. salt
1/4 cup olive oil
1 tbsp. dried mint
1 tsp. dried oregano
5 cups flour
1 onion, finely chopped
1 cup sundried tomatoes, slivered
1/2 cup black olives, halved (opt.)

Method:
1. In a large bowl, combine water, yeast, salt, oil, mint, and oregano. Add flour, one cup at a time, stirring with a wooden spoon (lumps don't matter). After the third cup of flour, you probably won't be able to use the wooden spoon any longer, so mix and knead the remaining flour by hand. Turn dough out onto a floured surface, and knead for about 8 min., until elastic.
2. Add onions, tomatoes, and olives. The easiest way to do this would be to roll the dough out, scatter over the onion, tomatoes and olives, fold in half, and roll out again. Repeat process a few times until the chunky pieces are well distributed through the dough. Form dough into a ball, place in an oiled bowl, and allow to rise until doubled.
3. Knock down dough, and form into two small loaves or one large one (either freeform or pans). Cover and allow to proof until almost doubled. Brush with olive oil, sprinkle with coarse salt, and bake in a moderate oven for 20-30 min. (depending on size of loaf), until golden and cooked through.


PANETONNE 
Panettone has many, many variations. Homemade, as ever, is incomparable to the bought bread. (Even this version, which is fairly light on the fruit, is much fruitier that bought panettone.) Making panettone for Christmas is a satisfying activity, particularly when you consider that they can be made weeks ahead and stored sealed airthight in cellophane (I use oven bags). Leftovers make the best bread and butter pudding! Panettone tins and paper panettone moulds (like giant paper patty cases) are available at Italian homeware shops; or you can make your own by tying a Gladbake or foil collar around a souffle dish, or using a large coffee can.

Ingredients: 
600g. flour
pinch salt
150g. sugar
2 tbsp. yeast
1 tbsp. sugar, extra
1 egg, lightly beaten
1 tsp. vanilla essence
1/2 cup butter
1/2 cup milk
1 tbsp. grated orange zest
1 tbsp. grated lemon zest
1/2 tsp. orange blossom water
2 tbsp. honey
100g. sultanas
100g. mixed peel
50g. glace fruit, chopped
100g. pine nuts (set aside 1 tbsp.)
eggwash

Method: 
1. Combine flour, salt, and sugar in a bowl.
2. Dissolve yeast and sugar with 1 tbsp. water and egg, beating well. Add vanilla, and butter, and mix until amalgamated. Add milk, citrus zest, orange blossom water, and honey. Add this mixture to flour, and stir to combine. Knead for about 8 min. to form a soft smooth dough. Place in a greased bowl, cover, and allow to rise in a warm place until doubled.
3. Knock down dough, and flatten out. Sprinkle over the sultanas, mixed peel, glace fruit, and pine nuts (except for 1 tbsp.). Roll up, and knead until fruit and nuts are evenly distributed through dough (this is hard work - a machine with a dough hook is heavensent if you have one).
4. Place dough in a buttered mould (see above), brush with eggwash, and top with remaining pine nuts. Bake in a moderate oven for about 50-60 min, covering top with foil if it browns too fast. Unmould, cool, and store sealed airtight in cellophane.


LA GUBANA
This very original sweet bread has got a most superb filling.

Ingredients: 
For the dough -
150g. warm milk
1 tbsp. dry yeast
1 tsp. sugar
400g. unbleached flour
300g. sugar
60g. butter, melted and cooled
4 eggs, lightly beaten
grated zest of 1 orange
grated zest of 1 lemon
pinch salt
For the filling -
150g. sultanas
liqueur of your choice
150g. pine nuts
150g. sultanas
150g. walnuts
100g. hazelnuts
100g. almonds
60g. sugar
3 dried figs, finely chopped
3 pitted prunes, finely chopped
50g. crushed amaretti biscuits
30g. glace fruits, finely chopped
50g. dark cooking chocolate, finely chopped
20g. butter, melted
1 tsp. cinnamon
1 egg, beaten

Method:
1. To make the dough, dissolve the yeast and sugar in the milk, and set aside until frothy.
2. Mix flour and sugar in a large bowl, and make a well in the centre. In the well place the yeast butter, eggs, citrus zest, pinch salt, and enough of the milk mixture to form a dough. Gradually work wet ingredients into dry until combined. Knead until smooth. Place dough in a floured bowl and cover. Allow to rise in a warm place until doubled.
3. In the meantime, make the filling. Soften the sultanas in the liqueur. Roughly chop the nuts, and place in a bowl with the sultanas, figs, prunes, amaretti, glace fruit, and chocolate. Combine melted butter and cinnamon, and add to filling with enough extra liqueur to make a soft mixture.
4. Roll out dough to 5mm thickness. Place filling in a sausage shape down the middle, and fold over dough to enclose, pinching seams. Form into a coil, and place on a greased pizza pan. Brush with beaten egg, and bake in moderate oven for about 1 hour, until golden. Cool on a wire rack, and serve cut into wedges.


WILTSHIRE LARDY CAKE
The first time I made lardy cake I made myself sick - 
mal de higado, crise de foie, if you're a believer in a sick liver you'll know what I mean - because I couldn't stop eating it. Like Danish pastry, it is made with a yeasted dough, and worked a bit like puff pastry. Many people nowadays shun lard which is a shame because it does wonders for fruit; if it's any comfort, lard is just as saturated as butter.

Ingredients: 
500g. bread dough, already risen
180g. lard, softened
180g. mixed dried fruit
60g. mixed peel
180g. sugar

Method: 
1. Knock down dough and roll out into an oblong. Spread 2/3 of it with 1/3 of the lard, fruit, peel, and sugar. Fold it in three. Press the ends down together with a rolling pin, and give the dough a half turn. Repeat process twice more.
2. Place dough into a square cake tin, and allow to rise in a warm place 20-30 min. Bake in a moderately hot oven about 45-60 min. Allow to cool in the tin for about 10 min before unmoulding and slicing. Eat hot or warm.